Contemporary

Season of JAR: a connoisseur’s approach to gems

Season of JAR: a connoisseur’s approach to gems

As yet another eye-popping jewel by the Bronx-born designer known as "JAR of Paris" goes on the block next month, a few observations of what a designer can achieve by going against convention when it comes to gemstones.

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Snakes and stones: female designers in Bali

Snakes and stones: female designers in Bali

Like Jean-François Fichot, Carolyn Tyler and Penny Berton both found a haven and outlet for their creative expression in Bali. Both invested a chunk of their lives developing a little design industry there, and both have since retreated somewhat to their roots. Tyler (far right) maintains a home in Santa Barbara and Berton (left)...

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Snakes and stones: Jean-François Fichot, ex-pat designer in Bali

Snakes and stones: Jean-François Fichot, ex-pat designer in Bali

If you’re ever in Bali, check out Treasures Gallery in Ubud where you’ll find three primary designers – Carolyn Tyler, Penny Berton, and Jean-François Fichot, who died last year but whose jewelry designs are still represented. Together they tell the story of a generation of artists who rebelled against the pressures and conventions of...

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JAR in full flower: 18 rare jewels on the block

JAR in full flower: 18 rare jewels on the block

As Christie’s prepares to sell the largest private collection of JAR jewels ever offered at auction – at Geneva’s Four Seasons des Bergues on May 14 – I dug up an interview I did in 2006 with François Curiel about Joel Arthur Rosenthal. Curiel, then the Geneva-based head of Christie’s jewelry department, was getting...

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Jewelry shopping in Curaçao

Jewelry shopping in Curaçao

If your particular island fantasy is to open a little shop and sell baubles to the tourists, here’s an option for you at the south end of the Caribbean. (If you’d rather make art in lush isolation, see my last post.) Curaçao, tucked between Cuba and Venezuela, is a balmy 85° most of the...

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Making art and jewelry on a Caribbean island

Making art and jewelry on a Caribbean island

Ever dream of dropping everything, moving to an island and making art for the rest of your life – surrounded by exotic wildlife, crystal blue seascapes, and like-minded individuals who’ve escaped the same rat race? So many islands have become artist havens, the choices are endless. You can move to Bali and become a...

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Fullerton-Bahr: mokume gane

Fullerton-Bahr: mokume gane

John Bahr and Lynda Fullerton like to learn new things. Having designed jewelry together since 1990, they had the basics down a while ago. But they get bored easily so they developed an annual tradition. As each year draws to a close, they put their heads together and come up with something both want...

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Man Ray’s jewelry by Gem Montibello

Man Ray’s jewelry by Gem Montibello

Among the rash of artist/goldsmith collaborations that came out in the sixties and seventies, Man Ray’s jewelry truly stands out. To see what I mean, visit the Picasso to Koons: The Artist as Jeweler exhibit at the Museum of Arts and Design and compare Man Ray’s dramatic sculptural designs to the wall of flat,...

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Frank Stella: stunning, not-so-wearable art

Frank Stella: stunning, not-so-wearable art

Most of us know by now that Dali, Calder, even Picasso designed jewelry at some point. But Yoko Ono, Frank Stella, Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons? Before Picasso to Koons went up at the Museum of Arts and Design last month, I didn’t know they designed jewelry. Most of it is from the collection of...

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Lorraine Schwartz brings big gems, crazy glam to red carpet

Lorraine Schwartz brings big gems, crazy glam to red carpet

If there was any doubt that red carpet minimalism is giving way to big gems and over-the-top glam, last night’s Emmy Awards proved it. And not just white diamonds – although there were plenty of those – but gems in all colors of the rainbow. Jewels by Lorraine Schwartz were a special case in...

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