Sugarloaf cabochon amethyst and pavéd old-mine diamonds set in silver and gold. English, ca. 1850 ($10,500, A La Vieille Russie, alvr.com)

February birthstone: Amethyst

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January’s birthstone is among the most popular gems in American jewelry.

A form of quartz found mainly in Brazil, Bolivia and Russia, amethyst has long been one of the gem world’s greatest bargains. But the finest deep purple variety is becoming scarce and getting more expensive. Much of the deep purple amethyst you find on the market now is synthetic. (As with all colored-stone jewelry, read the fine print or ask for clarification. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. Synthetic amethysts can be lovely but make sure you’re paying a price that reflects that.)

Amethyst was used in France for decorative purposes as far back as 25,000 B.C. In medieval times, the purple gem was set in the crowns and scepters of European royalty and soldiers wore it as a protective amulet in battle.

Brazilian amethysts first appeared in Europe in the early 1700s and quickly became the height of fashion, very desirable – and very expensive. But prices dropped after amethyst was discovered in the Ural Mountains in 1799 and Brazil increased its suupply.

Cabochon amethyst set in hammered 18kt gold (Karen Bandy Studio)

According to Greek mythology, an angry Bacchus declared that the first person he met would be devoured by tigers. When the lovely Amethyst came along, the goddess Diana turned her to crystal just as the tigers pounced. A repentant Bacchus poured wine over her – figuring, I suppose, that if she had to be a rock for all eternity, she might as well be beautiful and drunk.

As a result, amethysts were believed to possess wine-related magic.

Long before Alcoholics Anonymous, amethysts was worn to prevent intoxication. Like a glass of wine at the end of a rough day, this gem was believed to calm calm stress and relieve frustrated passion.

Amethyst offers a relatively affordable way to get big, colorful looks, they lend themselves to dramatic drop earrings.

Some amethyst versions of that look, at a fraction of the price those stars paid (or would have paid if they actually bought their jewels):

Carved amethyst pendant by Atelier Munsteiner at Aaron Faber Gallery

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Amethyst bracelet by Petra Class

You can find a few choice pieces of amethyst jewelry that caught my eye, from 19th-century revival to contemporary in my ShopMy amethyst collection.

You can find more beautiful (and somewhat pricier) vintage and antique amethyst jewels at A La Vieille Russie. Here’s an example found there in 2026, a c. 1950 necklace designed by Juliette Moutard for René Boivin of carved and cabochon amethysts interspersed with chrysoprase beads.

Necklace and bracelet, c. 1950, by Juliette Moutard for René Boivin of carved and cabochon amethyst with chrysoprase beads, in 18k gold @ A La Vieille Russie (AVLR.com)

You can still find deals on beautiful vintage and antique amethyst jewelry on eBay. I always filter for “authorized seller,” which brings you to pieces that come with eBay’s “authenticity guarantee” or a direct link to reliable sources.

For some of the best amethyst studio-made art jewelry, try Aaron Faber Gallery (see Munsteiner pendant above). Here is a mid-century ring designed in the “ballerina” style popular in the 1960s, found at Aaron Faber some years ago:

Cushion-cut amethyst in platinum and diamond baguette setting ($4,275, AaronFaber.com)

Related products

Book: Crystals for Beginners by Karen Frazier

Tumbled natural amethyst cluster dangle earrings (less than $20 on Amazon)

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