Topaz in diamond surround with ruby accents by JAR (Christie’s Images)If you think of gemstones as a brand, the topaz image has been seriously tarnished over the years. It’s hard to remember sometimes that topaz is, among other things, a precious gem with a rich history.
One example: those famous JAR-designed Imperial topaz earrings that Ellen Barkin sold at Christie’s in 2006. They resurfaced there in 2010, selling, once again, for nearly $700,000.
Most of us grew up seeing cheap citrine or glass labeled “topaz” as the November birthstone. Citrine is similar in color to the golden version of topaz but somewhat softer, less brilliant, and cheaper. Yellow citrine retails for about $10-50/carat where golden topaz is typically $20-60/carat. Rare Imperial topaz (like the JAR earrings above) can sell for up to $3,500/carat.
Then there’s the ubiquitous and ever popular blue topaz. Somehow, finding out that its blue color was caused by radiation took some of the thrill out of it. Until recently, virtually all blue topaz sold in jewelry stores was irradiated, and some deeper blues were actually found to be radioactive by the Nuclear Regulatory Commission.
Bombé ring by René Boivin with 126-carat blue topaz, sold at Sotheby’s in 2024 for $9,525In the U.S., it’s now required that all blue topaz be tested for radiation levels. Some topaz is also made blue by diffusion – that is, treated with chemicals, then slowly heated.
Natural blue topaz does, in fact, exist and can be quite lovely. But treated blue topaz can also be pretty and is far more affordable than other blue gems, at about $10-60/carat. If you like it, buy it. Heating, and even mild forms of diffusion, are common treatments with colored stones and accepted in the jewelry trade. If it’s being sold as natural, you might want to get that in writing.
Less familiar is the beautiful pink version of topaz, which can retail for more than $2,000/carat – pricier even than fine Imperial topaz. A stunning example: these Deco-style danglers (right) by Los Angeles designer Erica Courtney.
White topaz is also making a splash lately, as an affordable substitute for diamonds. It shows up in QVC’s Smithsonian-inspired collection as well as Scott Mikolay’s Crown Collection.
Related posts:
Back on the block: JAR topaz earrings
Beware: That ruby may be a glass composite